Textile and apparel classification is among the most intricate areas of the Harmonized System. The 14 chapters covering textiles (Chapters 50–63) are governed by complex rules that require classifiers to consider fibre content, construction method, fabric weight, and garment type simultaneously. Errors in this sector are costly — duty rates on apparel can reach 32% or higher, and misclassification between codes can mean the difference between a zero-duty FTA rate and a double-digit tariff.
The Structure of Textile Chapters (50–63)
The textile chapters follow a logical progression from raw materials to finished products:
- Chapters 50–55: Textile fibres and yarns (silk, wool, cotton, man-made fibres)
- Chapters 56–59: Special textile fabrics and technical textiles
- Chapter 60: Knitted or crocheted fabrics
- Chapters 61–62: Clothing (Chapter 61 for knitted/crocheted, Chapter 62 for woven)
- Chapter 63: Other made-up textile articles, sets, worn clothing
The most important distinction for finished garments is between Chapter 61 (knitted or crocheted clothing) and Chapter 62 (woven clothing). This distinction is made at the fabric level, not the garment level. A T-shirt made from jersey fabric (knitted) goes to Chapter 61; a shirt made from woven poplin goes to Chapter 62.
The Principal Fibre Rule
When a garment is made from a blend of fibres, classification is determined by the chief weight of fibre. A shirt containing 60% cotton and 40% polyester is classified as a cotton shirt. A fabric containing 55% polyester and 45% wool is classified as a man-made fibre fabric.
Note 2 to Section XI specifies that when two fibres of equal weight are present, the one appearing first in the HS nomenclature (i.e., earlier in Chapters 50–55) determines the classification. Cotton (Chapter 52) precedes man-made fibres (Chapter 55), so a 50/50 cotton-polyester blend would be classified as cotton.
Key Codes for Common Garments
T-Shirts and Vests (Knitted, Chapter 61)
- 6109.10 — T-shirts, singlets, and other vests of cotton
- 6109.90 — T-shirts, singlets, and other vests of other textile materials (including synthetic fibres)
Shirts (Chapter 61 for knitted, Chapter 62 for woven)
- 6105.10 — Men's shirts of cotton, knitted
- 6105.20 — Men's shirts of man-made fibres, knitted
- 6205.20 — Men's shirts of cotton, woven
- 6205.30 — Men's shirts of man-made fibres, woven
- 6206.10 — Women's blouses and shirts of silk, woven
- 6206.40 — Women's blouses and shirts of man-made fibres, woven
Trousers and Jeans
- 6103.42 — Men's trousers of cotton, knitted (includes knitted joggers)
- 6203.42 — Men's trousers and breeches of cotton, woven (jeans, chinos)
- 6204.62 — Women's trousers of cotton, woven
- 6204.69 — Women's trousers of other textile materials
Knitwear and Jumpers
- 6110.11 — Jerseys, pullovers, and similar articles of wool
- 6110.20 — Jerseys, pullovers, and similar articles of cotton
- 6110.30 — Jerseys, pullovers, and similar articles of man-made fibres
Duty Rates and Why They Matter
Textile and apparel duty rates are among the highest in most countries' tariff schedules. In the United States, some categories of apparel attract duties of 32% or more. In the EU, rates typically range from 12% to 17% for clothing.
A misclassification between a 12% and a 17% heading on a $200,000 shipment represents $10,000 in additional duty costs. When these shipments recur monthly, the cumulative impact is severe.
Common Textile Classification Mistakes
- Misidentifying knitted vs woven construction — this determines Chapter 61 vs 62
- Incorrectly applying the principal fibre rule for blends
- Failing to distinguish between men's, women's, and unisex garments (different subheadings apply)
- Classifying sets (matching tops and bottoms) without applying GRI Rule 3
- Treating children's clothing as adult clothing without checking the specific subheadings
- Overlooking the distinction between swimwear and underwear
TIP
When classifying blended textiles, always obtain a fibre composition certificate from your supplier. Customs authorities in the EU, US, and many other markets routinely test fabric samples to verify declared fibre content, and discrepancies can result in reclassification and back-duty assessments.
Textile Quotas and Anti-Dumping Measures
Many countries apply safeguard measures, anti-dumping duties, or quantitative restrictions on textiles from specific origins. These measures are typically triggered by HS codes at the national extension level. Before importing significant volumes of textiles from a new origin country, verify whether any trade remedy measures apply to your specific codes.